COMPARED to the other grand-looking tombstones lining up at Museum Taman Prasasti, Central Jakarta, the tomb of John Casper Leyden looks rather humble. His last resting place is only a small, knee-length, square structure made from granite that evidently is less remarkable and elegant than the tomb to its left: the last home of Olivia Mariamne, the first wife of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the Governor of Java (1811-1816) and the founder of Singapore.

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